Taormina to Scopello: A Week in Sicily
From the beautiful cliffside town of Taormina to the crystal waters of Scopello, find out how to spend a week in gorgeous Sicily.
Sicily has aways been a bucket list location for me: the quaint, picturesque towns, the beautiful beaches, and the breathtaking landscapes. It oozes elegance and romance, and I knew I needed to see it for myself.
Recently, I had the pleasure of spending a week on Sicilian soil, trying local cuisine, soaking up the sunshine, and marvelling at the surroundings. Here’s a deep dive into how I spent seven glorious days in Sicily, and how you can too.
Pre-Itinerary Essentials
A little background
Sicily lies off the southwestern coast of Italy, or more anatomically, just off the ‘toe’ of Italy’s boot. It’s the largest island in the Mediterranean, and its central location has made it a vibrant cultural crossroads for thousands of years, leaving behind a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and food.
It also happens to be home to smoking volcanoes, fairytale towns, and beautiful beaches, all of which have been put firmly on the map lately. Between starring as the backdrop for The White Lotus and hosting a string of high-profile celebrity weddings, let’s just say Sicily has become the place to be.
The view of Mount Etna from Taormina, a beautiful cliffside town on the east coast of Sicily.
Navigating the island
Before you plan your trip, here is one major thing you need to know about Sicily: it is huge. Previously, I’ve visited islands like Santorini and Mallorca, where it takes only an hour or two to get from one side of the island to the other.
Sicily is different. As the largest island in the Mediterranean, it takes around four hours to get from one coast to the other (from west to east). If you’re keen to visit various locations on the island, it’s best to keep in mind the travel time needed to hop between towns so you don't spend your entire holiday behind the wheel.
Renting a car
So, should you rent a car? If you want to explore beyond the main cities, then yes. Driving gives you the freedom to explore smaller corners of the island, such as Scopello, and often gets you from A to B much quicker.
We rented a car at Palermo Airport from Europcar, and it cost €250 for 5 days, including insurance. Our companion for the trip was a Fiat Grande Panda, which was absolutely ideal for nipping around the island. I’d highly recommend getting an automatic if you can; it gave us one less thing to worry about while navigating the organized chaos of the Sicilian roads. Speaking of which…
Driving in Sicily is almost a sport. While the coastal and inland roads are pretty straightforward and smooth, the cities are a lot more hectic. We drove past Palermo, and we noticed that the road markings here were merely decorative. Locals will drive quite freely, and it can be confusing at first, but don’t worry: you learn to adapt quickly!
If you don’t fancy braving the roads, you can easily navigate the island's main hotspots by bus or train. We used the train to get from Palermo Airport to the city centre, and it was super easy and relatively inexpensive (for reference, a ticket from the airport to Palermo Centrale station was around €6 each way).
Part I: Falling in love with Taormina
Our Sicilian adventure started in Palermo Airport, where we picked up our car and started the roadtrip across to Taormina. The drive took us around 3.5 hours, and we arrived just before evening.
We spent our first night simply wandering around and getting our bearings, before dedicating the entire next day to soaking up everything that Taormina had to offer. From trying authentic granita at Bam Bar to admiring the jaw-dropping views of Mount Etna , the day was just perfect from start to finish. It easily became my favourite place of the whole trip, and maybe one of my favourite places ever. Quite the statement, I know.
To find out exactly what we got up to in Taormina, along with all the details, you can read my full 1-day itinerary here.
A beautiful street in the heart of Taormina.
The crystal clear waters by Isola Bella.
The incredible view of Mount Etna from the ancient Greek theatre.
Part II: Castellammare del Golfo and Scopello
Where to stay near Scopello
After our short and sweet visit to Taormina, we packed up and headed west toward the gorgeous coast of Castellammare del Golfo The journey took us around 4 hours, until finally, we arrived at our lovely mountain retreat.
Our home for the rest of the week was this spacious Airbnb villa, tucked into the dramatic mountains overlooking the coastline. With just the two of us, the villa felt like our own private oasis, featuring three bedrooms, a balcony, a barbecue area, and a beautiful infinity pool with front-row seats to the gorgeous landscape below.
The villa was ideally located, just a 15-minute drive from the lovely village of Scopello. If you book a stay up here, keep in mind that the access road is a bit off the beaten track. We were very grateful for our reliable Fiat Panda, who was perfectly suited for tackling the bumpy mountain roads.
You're spoiled for choice with accommodation around Scopello. If you want to be close to the action and the beach, you can find lovely options right in the main square or down near the reserve. Alternatively, if it’s tranquility you’re after, the surrounding hills are packed with gorgeous mountain villas and rustic stays, though keep in mind that you’ll definitely need a car to get to and from town.
Enjoying an evening swim at our gorgeous villa.
The interior of the villa was so lovely and modern.
Felt like I was on the set of Love Island and waiting for the next recoupling (i.e. me and a glass of wine)
What to do in Scopello
The town
If you love quaint, picture-perfect locations, then you will love Scopello. Scopello itself is a tiny village, and essentially consists of just one main cobblestone street and a historic courtyard filled with restaurants and bars. It sits along a beautiful stretch of coast, packed with beautiful beaches and hidden coves.
You can easily drive to Scopello, and there are several car parks to choose from. We used the car park just outside the village, which is just a few-minute walk to the main square. Alternatively, you can park right by the square for even easier access.(There is also parking near Tonnara di Scopello).
The main square in Scopello’s village.
The ancient stone drinking fountain, framed by the Sicilian mountainscape.
Enjoying the beautiful Sicilian backdrop. You can discover my full Sicilian wardrobe here.
The town square, albeit tiny, is absolutely beautiful. The main courtyard features an ancient stone drinking fountain, surrounded by bars, restaurants, and cute cobbled lanes. We spent a sun-soaked evening here, and I felt like I was in a setting taken straight out of an Italian romance novel.
Through a stone archway off the main square, you will find the Baglio di Scopello, a historic, stone-walled courtyard brimming with local cafes and shops. It comes alive in the evening as restaurant-goers spill out for al fresco dining, and right in the middle, you can’t miss the ancient oak tree that beautifully dominates the courtyard.
We spent the evening here, dining at Ristorante Bar Nettuno, known for its fresh seafood and local Sicilian flavours. We sat in the courtyard, but if you can, I’d recommend booking a table on their sea terrace so you can soak in the incredible coastal views.
Ristorante Bar Nettuno, where we had a lovely evening meal.
Is it an Italian holiday without an Aperol Spritz?
We found this gorgeous hotel down one of the small lanes in Scopello.
Exploring the stalls in the Baglio di Scopello.
Tonnara di Scopello
Scopello is very well-known for its gorgeous coastline, its hidden swimming coves, and the historic Tonnara di Scopello – an ancient tuna fishery. Though, if you’re anything like me, you probably know it better as the stunning venue where Charli XCX got married.
Our original plan for the day was to visit this famous tuna fishery, with its beautiful, faded pink walls and surrounding turquoise water. You can’t miss its most recognisable feature: the stone sea stacks (also known as faraglioni) that poke majestically out of the waves.
They also have a dedicated beach club area with deck chairs and umbrellas that you can book online in advance to spend the day, but planning ahead is crucial. The fishery’s beach area can be booked up to two weeks in advance, so I’d highly recommend booking this as early as possible. When we visited, a private two-day event had taken over the venue, so we unfortunately couldn't go down. We did, however, get the chance to marvel from afar!
Tonnara di Scopello is an ancient tuna fishery, and now, popular landmark in Scopello.
The fishery, overlooking the turquoise water and stone formations.
The beach
After getting a look at the fishery, we took a walk further up the road to the next public beach – Cala Mazzo di Sciacca. It’s a lovely pebble beach with crystal-clear waters, unique rock formations, and is cradled beautifully by dramatic limestone cliffs. On one side, there is a beach club area where you can rent sun loungers (prices are around €10 - €30) and grab a drink at the cafe. On the other side is the public beach area, where you can easily set up your own spot and enjoy the sunshine.
The beach here can get super busy, so if you prefer a bit more space and comfort, it’s definitely worth hiring a lounger. It also sits right next to the Zingaro Nature Reserve, so if you fancy a hike, there are some beautiful paths that lead you straight to hidden coves and rugged cliffs (just remember to bring proper shoes and a few euros for the entry fee).
I enjoyed a blissful few hours here soaking up the sun and taking a dip in the sea, before finally heading back home for a well-deserved picky tea.
Side note: If you need to stock up on snacks or beach supplies, there is a lovely little market shop in Scopello called Market Scopello, located at Contrada Piano Vignazza. While it may be a little on the pricier side, it has a wonderful range of fresh produce and deli items. I even picked up some granita and brioche here (this was my favourite Sicilian snack).
Cala Mazzo di Sciacca beach.
Enjoying a lovely sea dip at Cala Mazzo di Sciacca.
The perfect dinner: crisps, olives, meats, cheese, and tomato salad.
Part IV: The bustling streets of Palermo
At last, we had to (unwillingly) say goodbye to our gorgeous villa, the sweeping mountains, and the coast of Scopello, as we started the journey back over to Palermo. With our flight the next morning, it made sense to be closer to the airport. Plus, we got to see some of the city while we were there.
After returning our trusty Fiat, we caught the train into the city centre. We spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Palermo, beelining straight for the Centro Storico (the Old Town). We passed authentic Italian alleys lined with colourful Vespas, and had a lovely wander through Piazza Bellini, with its towering palm trees and beautiful architecture.
We passed authentic Italian alleys lined with colourful Vespas.
The church of San Cataldo in Piazza Bellini.
Wandering the streets of Palermo.
We eventually found ourselves walking down Via Maqueda, the main pedestrian street that cuts through the heart of the city, lined with restaurants and shops and outdoor seating. We passed right through Quattro Canti, the historic intersection that marks the exact centre of the Old Town. It’s also known as the 'Theater of the Sun' because of its four beautifully symmetrical, curved Baroque facades, designed so that the sun hits at least one of them all day long. The square was brimming with life as street performers began to sing and tourists marvelled at the surrounding architecture.
By the end of our stroll, travel fatigue had firmly set in, so instead of a big evening out, we grabbed a takeaway pizza to eat back at our hotel. With my pajamas on, a pepperoni slice in hand, and a week of freshly-made memories, it really was the perfect end to my gorgeous Sicilian retreat.
Quattro Canti, in the heart of Palermo.
The wonderful architecture of Palermo’s Old Town.
